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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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 Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 12:16:43 AM
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Have been modding vn's and vp's of my own for the past 6 years ive encountered just about every mechanical mishap possible. Feel free to ask anything technical regarding modding, repairs, diagnosis, specifications, etc.
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Cheers,
Nodg. |
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 6:47:23 PM
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| nodg I know this is off topic but do you know much about toyota's??? My torago has a electrical problem ! |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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ethanvn
P Plater
40 Posts
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Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 7:41:59 PM
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hey nodg! I hav a vn and iv just changed my front suspension/ coilovers and put the adgustable strut tops on, and done all the bushes/ rotors and that took a bit longer than i thought it would lol, and thought id do the ball joints aswell but one keeps poping out! Is there a reason why this would happen and can i take the wish bone out with out taking the coilovers out???
Cheers
Wats the best thing thatr u can do to a vn that is cheap???? |
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 8:01:03 PM
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no key on and the 2nd thermo comes on and there is a sparkin noise behind the dash but more of a speaker sound!! iiiiits a 88 model!
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3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 8:23:57 PM
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| if the ball joint keeps falling out it means that bearing have been pressed in too many times and you need a new lower control arm from the wreckers, you can get the control arm and lower ball joint for about 30 dollars |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 03 Jul 2007 : 8:34:11 PM
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| to remove the lower control arm, assuming the ball joint assembly is still apart is to undo the nut that connects the control arm to the body and punch out the bolt, next undo the bolt that holds the support bar to the chassis, the control arm will then slide out, its simply remove and replace but if you want to use the new balljoints that you bought, take the arm and joints to a mechanical workshop and they'll use a proper press to press it evenly and snug! |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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formula
Fully Licenced
162 Posts
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Posted - 05 Jul 2007 : 02:42:49 AM
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| is it hard to lower the steering rack to throw extractors on? |
broom |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 05 Jul 2007 : 02:53:53 AM
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| undo the right hand side bolt and lower the rack with the tie rod ends and left rack bolt attached, needed to slide the header in and out other than that some may find it hard to reach the bolts under the head |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
Edited by - nodg on 05 Jul 2007 02:54:24 AM |
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formula
Fully Licenced
162 Posts
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 05 Jul 2007 : 6:56:33 PM
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| found out what the problem with the van was!!! You will never guess!!! Afurkin relay!!! Now I'm trying to get 1 from toyota!! What a drama!! |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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pumba3800
P Plater
15 Posts
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Posted - 05 Jul 2007 : 11:36:05 PM
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ok i got one for ya
when ever i turn the fan onto 1,2 or 3 the revs go erratic and i get this loud clicking from under the bonnet,sorta sounds like the thermo clicking in and out real quick ,its always done it ,even after an engine change and that fuse thing under the wiper blades..i like to call it the spring prison....
any ideas ??
thanks
my power steering pump also blows a puff of smoke if it hasnt been started for few days and makes a grinding noise..yep self explanatory that one :P |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 06 Jul 2007 : 02:15:10 AM
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im guessing my erratic revs you mean the revs basically increase, its the clutch on your air compressor engaging and disengaging, thermo fan also makes this sound.
And your pump is suffering from a worn bearing, replace the pulley. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 06 Jul 2007 : 02:16:24 AM
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| if the clicking is a constant on-off then you have a problem with your thermo fan or compressor. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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pumba3800
P Plater
15 Posts
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Posted - 06 Jul 2007 : 11:08:15 AM
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by compressor do you mean the air con pump? or the air box under the dash..or am i way off..:P
if it is the air con compressor would it have to be on for it to do this...could i take the fuse out??
havent got my manual anymore to check these.
thanks :) |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 06 Jul 2007 : 11:41:51 PM
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| if its stuffing up you can just simply turn the aircon off, on vn's the switch is back to front meaning you have to have the button pressed in for it to be off. leave you aircon off and run your car to 100degrees and see if the thermo fan engaes and disengages properly, if it keeps turning itself on and off or not at all without the aircon on i would look at both the thermo fan and the wiring where the plugs join, see if theres play and replace as necessary |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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pumba3800
P Plater
15 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jul 2007 : 5:18:44 PM
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Who the f*** makes a button thats on when its out!!!,
Well i turned it off and its all good, been running it like that for 2 years damnit, thanks man never would of thought of that..you freakn rule
I`m surprised my mechanic`s never said anything  |
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NOJ05H
Fully Licenced
117 Posts
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Posted - 07 Jul 2007 : 5:26:37 PM
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ok got a lil problem, doesnt matter but anyway... the window washers wont squirt, there is not noise when i press the button and the little tank is full of water... is that the actual pump?? how much am i lookin at payin to get a replacement and how hard is it to replace myself?
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Need assistance with modding my vn, please PM me ideas coz i dont really know what to do... |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2007 : 03:20:02 AM
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| get a needle and clear out the squirt holes on your bonnet they block up easily, just remembering that the hole is only a mil or 2 wide so it should be done every now and then! |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
Edited by - nodg on 08 Jul 2007 03:21:20 AM |
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NOJ05H
Fully Licenced
117 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2007 : 10:11:29 AM
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| sweet, thanks guys :) ill try in about 5minutes and let you know |
Need assistance with modding my vn, please PM me ideas coz i dont really know what to do... |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2007 : 11:55:32 AM
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| sorry i misread your thread, i thougt you said the motor was working and no water coming out.......like sweet said check the fuses and if the wiring is all good and the button on your dash is working properly then id get a motor from the wreckers which would set your back 15-20 dollars |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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formula
Fully Licenced
162 Posts
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Posted - 09 Jul 2007 : 11:42:34 PM
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| hay nodg wene you reset the ecu dose that deleat any custom settings or effect any comp mod? |
broom |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 10 Jul 2007 : 03:31:42 AM
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| i heard that after a while a custom set ecu will flash/reset to original settings, but this is untrue unless you wave some ultraviolot light over the chip! On another note, the vn uses a 16k learning computer which if reset, allows your ecu to clear its memory(not the actual settings) and automatically 'tune' to any new modifications installed as well as a heavier/lighter foot. youll find if you drive your car around flat out for a day it will change the fuel/air mixture and respond better. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
Edited by - nodg on 10 Jul 2007 03:32:19 AM |
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pumba3800
P Plater
15 Posts
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Posted - 10 Jul 2007 : 11:42:19 AM
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quote:
i heard that after a while a custom set ecu will flash/reset to original settings, but this is untrue unless you wave some ultraviolot light over the chip! On another note, the vn uses a 16k learning computer which if reset, allows your ecu to clear its memory(not the actual settings) and automatically 'tune' to any new modifications installed as well as a heavier/lighter foot. youll find if you drive your car around flat out for a day it will change the fuel/air mixture and respond better.
So is that why ppl say to rev your car to 3000rpm for 10 secs when you set the chip? |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 10 Jul 2007 : 11:48:10 AM
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| people say to do that so the idle can reset and tune itself, but you dont have to just start and drive it and the next time you pull up it will have set. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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formula
Fully Licenced
162 Posts
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Brum
P Plater
65 Posts
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Posted - 11 Jul 2007 : 10:15:06 PM
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Hey Nodg, heres a question for you. I tried everythin peeps on this forum have recommended and none of it has worked. Heres my problem...
The car - 91' VN berlina, 1 owner (ME ), 150,000k's, V6 auto and it chews fuel anywhere upto 20L p/100km, and this is driving gently!!
On the highway - averages 12.5L/100km
Suburbs driving - lately averaging 16L/100km
Car is regularly serviced, have tried all the tips on injector cleaning, long drives etc. The throttle body is damn clean, i check it every month same as the oxygen sensor - reasonably new!!
Can you offer me any advice on what i can do to try and lower my fuel consumption?? I have reset my cpu before a long drive and it didnt work?? Cheers mate!!  |
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 11 Jul 2007 : 10:45:10 PM
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| Good to see this thread workin!!! Please try to keep the answers for nodg in this thread! And keep them rollin in I wanna c nodgs head xplode lol!!! ( no nasties meant there nodg) lol! nodg is good at What he does so bust his brain he loves it!!!!!!! |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 12 Jul 2007 : 07:11:52 AM
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is performance affected? i can name a few things you could look at but if possible and this would be great if everyone can do it, explain every single little detail you can about your problem, take pictures, etc. The smallest clue could be a more accurate diagnostic.
Back to your problem, if performance isnt affected look at the map sensor which serves a similar purpose to the oxygen sensor, blocked exhaust system, dirty air filter, check your main earth, etc the list can go on but the listed has to do with the disruption of the combustion sequence. by the way when you cleaned your throttle body did you spray it in whilst at a steady idle? if you do this all the carbon that has built up on you manifold, ports, pistons, etc will be eaten into and can improve performance and economy. if you feel your motor is a bit to carboned up then get a proffesional de-carbon your motor with the strong stuff which cost around 100 bucks. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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Brum
P Plater
65 Posts
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Posted - 15 Jul 2007 : 5:59:59 PM
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Sorry for the late reply. Ok, the performance isnt affected, the car still goes pretty daym well!! Although it does feel sluggish after i have been driving it hard for a bit...(Which isnt often - considering the amount of fuel it uses!)
I didnt spray anything down the throttle body, i just wipe the mouth, butterfly, and stuff with petrol cos its a good cleaner!
My mechanic has offered to clean the deposits for bout $130, but the throttle is still shiny metal and the chamber behind looks quite clean too!! So does it really need it??
Fuel and airfilters get replaced regularly...
Ok 3 things you listed i dont know how to check-
1) The main earth?? Where and what is this??
2)How do i check if the exhaust is blocked?? It flows ok, but sounds a bit lumpy at times. (stock exhaust)
3) Where is the MAP sensor on the VN's isnt it behind the throttle body? and how do i check this??
Any other things on the list you could mention?? How can i tell if the injectors arent flowing properly??
Cheers mate |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 15 Jul 2007 : 8:17:37 PM
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Your mechanic would be doing a carbon deposit flush and is worth it for any car thats doen more than 50000, worn motors shouldnt get this done because the carbon on your pistons/rings may be the only thing keeping your compression up. Before getting this done look in your throttle body and youll see a little hole, spray it with carby cleaner with the extension on the can, start the car and hold it at around 1500 rpm spraying into the intake.
Check the earth strap which is under the coilpack.
Unbolt your cataylic converter and check to see if its blocked or colapsed, htap the muffler and resonator ans listen for colapsed internals and carbon build up, will sound like theres sand in the mufflers if its clogged.
Yep the map sensor is behind the throttle body, its the module with the hose and plug attached to it, it wont be a perished line otherwise the car will stall just about everytime you pull up to the lights and idle like a carby 308. Make sure the plug is pushed on properly and check the oxygen sensor plug aswell (unbolt it from your exhaust and if its a sooty white replace it. The only test i have for the map is to remove and replace the hose feeding to it with the motor started, otherwise i would replace the module itself, a code will normally only show if the map doesnt recognise airflow at all but old age can affect its ability to register exactly how much air is entering your intake, thus making the ecu add more fuel to the mixture than needed, which could be your lumpy exhaust note at times and also makes your car sluggish after heating up.
The injecters dont sound like the problem, but if you wan to check teh system then id first check the fuel regulator, remove it and see if fuel leask past the valve, check the vaccum line isnt perished or blocked. It would then be testing the injecter pulse which you need a workshop manual for the specs and a multimeter, remove and test your injecter plugs one at a time with the motor running and only 1 removed at anytime. After that for the injector to be fully inspected/cleaned the whole injector rail will have to be removed, dont forget to check the o-rings also.
The fuel economy sounds ok for the average vn. once the motor starts to wear, hydraylic lifter, bearing, etc. increase's friction in the motor takes more effort to create power thus using more petrol. By making sure everything is in good working order youd expect 450-550 per 63 litre tank around town
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Cheers,
Nodg. |
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