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chooba
P Plater
 

57 Posts
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Posted - 07 Aug 2006 : 9:15:06 PM
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Whats going on guys? I understand possibly that many of you guys have had water get into your boot some way or another. How the hell do you stop it??? Does anyone know how it gets in, in the first place? Ive herd of this happening to a heap of VNs and now it has happened to me. If anyone knows where it comes in from so i cant possibly patch it up?
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A VN quote to Remember... 'THE MIGHTY SLEDGE HAMMER SOLVES ALL VN PROBLEMS' Anything can fit if its mashed into place... |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 07 Aug 2006 : 9:36:54 PM
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| hehehehe this is a bitch,mineswas rusted out so i made up a whole new boot floor pan [I,m a sheetie]and as 4 the leak I repaced the rubbers and patched any little divits and rust I could c along the sil, this sorted my problem.U probaly dont need the new pan but new wether seals r a good idea. |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 08 Aug 2006 : 08:57:39 AM
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I've got a massive write up on it, I'll see if I can post it here, I've spend more than a year working this out, and I'm still going :
Well...My boot is much more waterproof (although not perfect yet) than what it was when I started fixing it up a while back now. Without actually seeing where the water is pooling I can't really make much of a comment on where your leak may be. Here's a few suggestions:
1) Spoiler bolt holes: if your ride has a spoiler on it, these holes are notorious for letting water in. Just unbolt the spoiler and run some silicone based sealant around each bolt hold before bolting it back down.
2) Tail lights: the 'foam' seal between the lens assembly and the body compresses to the point of being useless. It becomes hard and brittle and doesn't seal properly any more. Solution is to unbolt the light assemblies and run a bead of silicone around it before bolting it back on.
3) Boot lid rubber: It is very easy for little rust holes to form out of sight under the boot lid rubber. Easy enough to check, just grab a section and lift if away from the panel (don't remove the whole thing at once, it's a bitch to get back on that way. ). If there are any small holes, rub it back with a wire brush or some fine sand paper, treat the rust, paint it up and put the seal back on.
4) Fuel filler lid: The screws used to hold the hinge assembly onto the body of the car were NEVER sealed properly (despite what Holden say a small piece of stiff rubber doesn't work). Unscrew them, more silicone in the holes and screw them back up.
5) Plastic panels at base of D-pillar: These are just held into the base of the D-pillar by two crappy plastic posts with a little bit of silicone based glue. Solution: get a screwdriver, wrap the blade in insulation tape so as not to scratch the paintwork, and gently (VERY gently) prize them away from the bodywork. Guess what...More Silicone. Don't forget to peel the old stuff away otherwise they don't sit properly.
6) Boot lock: The barrel itself is not watertight against the body. There isn't much that can be done other than run some silicone over the inside of the boot lid around where the lock is located. Thankfully bugger all water actually gets in here. In my opinion don't bother with trying to fix this one, it's a non-event.
Those were the easiest ones to fix, however there are another three posibilities that I've found (with one more maybe), these are a bitch to fix but are the most probable.
7&8) The bottom/uprights of the rear window seal. God this one sucked, along the bottom of the window (top and bottom of the bottom seal), get a tube of clear silicone sealant, cut the smallest hole possible in the tip of the nozzle and run a continuous bead from one side to the other (under the seal of course). The uprights are a bit more of a hassle, I managed to peel the window seal away from the window so that I could treat a few rust holes (same as in 3) and run yet another bead of silicone down there (one long bead) and then managed to get the window seal back in. The side window seal can come out (albeit gently), getting it back in properly took me the best part of 15 minutes with a flat-wide blade screwdriver just popping each section back in.
9) Rear side windows (between C and D pillar): The foam seal used to keep these watertight has the same problem as the seal on the boot lights. This job was possibly the worst I've ever had to do on any car. Each window took me approximately 2 hours to do, though I am getting quicker. The tute for this is in the other message as this one was going to be WAY too long.
10) This one's only a maybe and I'm going to pull mine apart this weekend: the window seal on the top edge of the rear window. IF this were to be leaking it would be possible for the water to flow down the D-pillar and drop into the boot. I've tested this theory and now it's time to see if it's holds any water.
If all that seems a little daunting then (if you're in Melbourne) I could come past and give you a hand with it. If you're in another city though it ain't gonna happen.
Hope you've got some spare time.
* Remove the strip below the window by gently knocking it forwards to disengage the metal clips holding in in place. * Remove the back seat. * Remove the rear parcel shelf. * Remove the seat belt 'pully' on the C-pillar. * Remove the rubber strip from around the door frame * Remove the three screws holding the window to the C-pillar
WARNING:These next steps will see you break something 9 times out of 10. The other 1 out of 10 you will shatter something. This is unavoidable due to the nature of the cars construction. If you're lucky a little bit of superglue can mend it so that your average passenger will not notice.
* Using a long flat blade screwdriver start at the bottom of the plastic shroud around the inside of the window and locate the first 'clip' going up the C-pillar. * Gently ease this away from the body of the car. * Find the second clip on the C-pillar, ease this away from the car * Move along the top of this shroud to find another 'clip' near the rear window, ease this away from the car (SNAP!!! ) N.B. You do not actually have to remove this shroud, just prizing these clips out a little is enough to continue working.
If by some chance you're still working and haven't given up in disgust grab yourself a nice little 8mm open end/ring spanner and along the top (slanted) edge of the side window you should see (or feel) three nuts. Undo each of these completely.
*Once all three nuts are off, the window should come off, with a little coaxing.
You'll quickly see the foam seal has been compressed and a bead of silicone sealant over the top of it and around all the bolts solves that problem. With the window off however I took the chance to run a bead along the underside of the strip that makes up the roof gutter so that no water would actually fall on the window seal. Just some extra insurance.
Putting the window back in is easy as long as you've got thin fingers. Otherwise getting the nuts back on those bolts is a bitch of a job (careful not to drop them, because they can become irretrievable if they fall in the wrong spot). Also, do not over tighten those nuts as they are just a crappy plastic.
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Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
Edited by - mouce on 08 Aug 2006 08:58:38 AM |
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lolo
Fully Licenced
  

503 Posts
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Posted - 08 Aug 2006 : 10:31:30 PM
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| pwoooaaaaah mouce thats on helluva post lol... all i was gonna say is to replace the boot rubbers but it seems youve touched all bases |
Marcus Rogulic R.I.P (1980-2007) "The Good Die Young" |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 08 Aug 2006 : 10:50:40 PM
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| ye does the job every time onya mouse!!! 3beer read lol gulp!!! |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 09 Aug 2006 : 4:16:10 PM
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I put that together as a PM for a user on another forum, but figured that since all that effort went into it I should share it. I know it's a long post and all, but the only other way for water to get in through into the boot that I haven't covered is if the boot lid is missing.
Of course the easy alternative to all of the above leaks is to get some rubber mat, line the BOTTOM of the boot with rubber, seal it all up and go and get some gold-fish :) |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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chooba
P Plater
 

57 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2006 : 12:54:15 PM
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| I have sorta found a possibility of where it could be comming from...on the underside of the bootlid, there are holes/cuts that let you see the underside of the outside layer of metal. I have found water streaks dribbling down it. What do i do for that?? Which one in your post covers this? |
A VN quote to Remember... 'THE MIGHTY SLEDGE HAMMER SOLVES ALL VN PROBLEMS' Anything can fit if its mashed into place... |
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lolo
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503 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2006 : 8:06:37 PM
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| lol missing boot lid... hehe I like that one |
Marcus Rogulic R.I.P (1980-2007) "The Good Die Young" |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2006 : 8:24:39 PM
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You got a spoiler? That'd be letting the water in a bit. Either that or maybe the boot lock. Could also be the holes the boot garnish bolt through. Check all of those first.
Another common reason for water streaks inside the boot lid like that is condensation sometimes forms and runs down the boot lid when you open it. Being a single skin boot like that condensation forms really easily, especially in winter, and especially if there's a bit of water in the boot. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2006 : 9:25:43 PM
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gold fish hehehehe thats cool, and if u read up the page a little u c that the spoiler hole thingy has already been covered by the 1 and only mouCe....I think he covered every leak in the boot P.s rubber is not good 4 goldfish>>>lol
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chooba
P Plater
 

57 Posts
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Posted - 10 Aug 2006 : 11:30:03 PM
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| True true. I dont have a spoiler by the way, and ill check the garnish holes tomorow. let you no howit goes. |
A VN quote to Remember... 'THE MIGHTY SLEDGE HAMMER SOLVES ALL VN PROBLEMS' Anything can fit if its mashed into place... |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 11 Aug 2006 : 10:28:25 AM
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With how cold and moist it's been in Victoria lately (I live here too), the inside of my boot lid looks like it's been hosed down with all the condensation on it. Wipe it off one day, and clean it up all nice and pretty like, then put a chalk line across where the water has been running, and keep an eye on it for a few days. If the chalk line has gotten wet it's pretty obvious, try hosing the boot down too to see if the water is really coming in or if it's just condensation.
Don't forget to check the boot lock too. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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Brum
P Plater
 

65 Posts
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Posted - 06 Sep 2006 : 8:02:38 PM
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Okay, it seems that i have a similar problem, so to find out where it was coming from, funny as it seems, i lay in my boot with a torch when it was raining, and found the bloody problem... Only trouble is how do i fix it, the water is leaking from the rear quarter panels, but i cant get my head up there any further... lol Can i get the seals replaced on the rear quarter? Cheers |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 06 Sep 2006 : 9:18:05 PM
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Nothing wrong with your method of leak detection. Actually when it's not raining, lying in the boot with someone hosing the boot down is about the best way to do it.
As for the 'seals' on the rear quarter panel...I'm not entirely sure what you mean...I'm assuming that the water is coming down in that little gap between the vertical brace and the outer skin of the quarter panel. If that's where the water is coming in from, then I'd suggest that it's the rear triangular windows...covered up above.
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Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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Brum
P Plater
 

65 Posts
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Posted - 07 Sep 2006 : 8:13:11 PM
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All these different meanings... ummm.... Well, if i said the closest corner of the window to boot, would that make sense?! LOL! Will it just involve silicon? Or which number of the writeup was it above? Thanks mouce |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 07 Sep 2006 : 9:13:41 PM
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| we need more pics lol!!!!! |
3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead |
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mouce
National Driver
   

1525 Posts
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Posted - 07 Sep 2006 : 9:56:11 PM
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7,8,9,10 could all be responsible for the leak that you're describing. 5 is in there with a shot, but you can normally see this one when it leaks.
@trizo, I plan on adding pictures in the how-to that I've put together, so far it's just the text as above, but pictures are on their way. I really don't feel like pulling any of the windows out, but I'll see what I can do. I'm in Canberra this weekend, so the car won't be getting touched, next week I might have the chance. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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