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blaringmike
Starting in the driveway


loon009

4 Posts

Male

Posted - 16 Nov 2006 :  12:17:53 AM  Show Profile Send blaringmike a Private Message
 
Hi guys, i've been reading the forums for a couple of weeks. I'm on the look out for my first car and i've decided to go a vn or vp. I've got a couple of questions.
1)Is the much difference in how the vn drive compared to the vp's?
2)Do s-paks have sports suspension standard on all of them?
3)What sort of things should i look out for when inspecting cars 4 sale? Any specific leaks, noises that are bad news in the vn/vp's?

I've got a couple more query's but i'll get to them later, any help would be appreiciated.
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mouce
National Driver


smiley-evil

1525 Posts

Male

Posted - 16 Nov 2006 :  11:05:37 AM  Show Profile Send mouce a Private Message
 
1) The early VN (the series 1) launches a bit harder than the VN S2 and the VP. It's a bit less 'refined' and is more likely to induce wheel spin when you don't want it. The VP is a little smoother at idle, but has it's peak power/torque higher in the rev range which means that peak power/torque is less usable than in the VN.

2) I could be wrong, but as far as I know the VN S and the VP S, both had the FE2 suspension.

3) Underneath the engine, at the back where the bell-housing bolts up to the engine, if that's got oil all over it, chance would be that you've got a leaking rear-main seal. That's a rather expensive little exercise.

If there is a loud rattle from the front of the engine then I'd be leaning towards the timing chain being on the way out.

The injectors should tick, but shouldn't be overly loud.

Have a good look at the suspension rubbers.

Check for rust spots along the top of the front/rear windscreens.

Check to see if there's ANY signs of water leaks in the boot

Pull the oil filler cap off the engine and have a look at it, it should have a nice even clear colour, if there's any sign of some milky creamy stuff then walk away. It's water in the oil.

Have a look in the coolant reservoir if there's anything other than a nice clean coolant colour, be very careful, if it's looking brown, then the cooling system is probably filthy with a few bits of rust starting to grow. If it's kinda oily, again, walk away.

Look at tyre wear, so long as it's even on both sides of the car, it isn't a bad thing. Just makes sure that the wheel alignment is okay.

If it's a manual, start it, put the handbrake on, put it in 4th and let the clutch out slowly. If the engine stalls, you're sweet, if it keeps going, you're going to need a new clutch.

Find a nice steep hill, put it in reverse and back up the hill. If there's any sign of clutch shudder, again, probably need a new clutch. Could also be the engine mounts.

Hope that helps.
 

Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006)
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blaringmike
Starting in the driveway


loon009

4 Posts

Male

Posted - 16 Nov 2006 :  4:11:12 PM  Show Profile Send blaringmike a Private Message
 
Thanks for that!
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mouce
National Driver


smiley-evil

1525 Posts

Male

Posted - 16 Nov 2006 :  8:27:35 PM  Show Profile Send mouce a Private Message
 
If it's got power steering make sure that there's no excessive noise from the pump, and no nasty clunks when you do a 3 point turn.

If it's got a/c make sure that it works.
 

Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006)
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MILD50
Fully Licenced


armedforces-tankdriver

850 Posts

Male

Posted - 28 Nov 2006 :  9:35:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit MILD50's Homepage Send MILD50 a Private Message
 
Just remember you get what you pay for and a well maintained, lower KM Exec with good mechanicals is going to be much better than a sub par Calais or SS in the long run.

Unless you're handy with the spanners!
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