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trizo
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3091 Posts
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 Posted - 06 Aug 2006 : 4:08:56 PM
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hey guys got another problem can any1 tell were to locate the diagnostic reader my little orange engine light cums on and stays on there is no flashing I was told it may be the reader help1!! 
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 06 Aug 2006 : 6:36:28 PM
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Diagnostic Reader? WTF...? There's a nice little plug in the passengers side of the cabin and if you short out two of the pins you can get the warning light to flash the error codes.
In the passengers footwell, on the big plastic kick-panel that's got the ecu behind it, there is a plastic plug back there, not plugged into anything, it's got 6 pins, it's white and it's farily small. Holding it so that you face the pins, and the row of four pins on top, you short out the two on the right hand side as you look at it. A paper clip will do. The key has to be turned to the "on" position to get it to flash the codes.
They come out in flashes, eg. one flash followed by a 1.2 second pause, followed by 4 flashes is code 14.
Count them, write them down, then post them here so that I (or someone else) can tell you what they mean.
If the engine light comes on, it means that the ecu has logged a fault code of some sort, the paperclip is the easy way to find out the code. It's also possible to build/buy ALDL cables to go from the car to a computer to tell you what it all means, but it's a lot of stuffing around. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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Posted - 06 Aug 2006 : 7:03:36 PM
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| thanx again mate I'll give it ago and let u know >... |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 22 Aug 2006 : 7:50:47 PM
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ok mouce I did as xplaind and with the key on it busted my ignition fuse there was no flashing or anything just a busted fuse?the light went out but came bak wen the fuse was replaced any ideas and I did this as u sed!!!!
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trizo
Forum Moderator
3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 2:35:55 PM
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| any idea's ANY1? |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 3:31:48 PM
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Okay...found this site, there's even a picture of the VN/VP ALDL connector (it's link is in the VN/VP section). If you bridge the correct connections you should hear the fan come on and the light should flash. I've never heard of people blowing fuses by doing this, not when it's done properly. That said, there's a few connectors tucked under there, and they all fit the same kinda description 'white, plastic, 6 pins'. The ALDL one is a very distinctive shape though. Check out these instructions, and have a look at the diagram of the ALDL connector.
http://homepages.picknowl.com.au/donna/ccc/instructions.html
If you're interested it's actually possible to build a cable to go from the car to a computer which means you can see all the real time running variables. Takes a bit of fiddling around to make it up, but if you're interested I'll post up a link on how to do that too ;)
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Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 4:01:13 PM
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mouce thanx mate now i seen the diagram i did the bottom 2 "THIS WILL BLOW UR IGNiTION FUSE LOL" haf 2 get my eyes cheked as I read the info 3 times..........
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 4:02:55 PM
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alrighty worked a treat this is wat I got 4 flashes 1 second between.. does any1 know wat this is?
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 4:29:40 PM
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ok had another look myself (missus was reading out codes!!)this time I'll xplain properly it was 1 flash 1.2 off then 4 quick flashes followed by 3 flashes then it reapeted is the temp coolant sensor the thing with little copper conductor that goes into the topleft rad hose? |
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Edited by - trizo on 28 Aug 2006 4:34:43 PM |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 6:48:30 PM
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The way to read the code (as written in the Gregory's on my desk):
Each fault code comprises two groups of flashes separated by a 1.2 second pause. The first group represents tens, and the second group represents single units. For example one flash followed by a 1.2 second pause followed by 4 flashes would be code 14. Similarly, 4 flashes followed by a 1.2 second pause followed by 2 flashes would be code 42.
The code will be displayed 3 times. If more than one fault code is present, the self diagnosis system will indicate each one (in numerical order), with a 3.2 second pause between each code and then repeat the sequence.
Going on what you said, it sounds like there's a code 14, but I'm not sure what the second part will be. There's got to be more flashes in there somewhere.
Either way code 14: Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
This is the coolant temperature sensor (back of the engine, under the throttle body) (it's the sensor the blue thing is clipped to)
Check the connector, it could just be a busted wire, if you want to replace the sensor:
1) Disconnect the wiring connector from the coolant temperature sensor
2) Drain the cooling system to a level below the coolant temperature sensor
3) Unscrew the coolant temperature sensor from the rear of the manifold
When putting the new one in:
1) Coat the threads of the new sensor with Loctite 242
2) Top up the cooling system, and bleed all the air out of the system
3) Reset engine computer
As a quick test for the old one, if you've got a multimeter kicking around, measure the resistance across the two terminals. At 20degC it should be about 2500ohms. |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
Edited by - mouce on 28 Aug 2006 6:49:32 PM |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 7:16:14 PM
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| mate it defintly 4 flashes then followed by three flashes and in my manual max ellery's there is no code 43 or 34 and I did watch tgese codes repeat 4 times in a row same every tim 4 then 3?????? |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 9:12:23 PM
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Well...code 34 is the MAP sensor (manifold air pressure). Attached to the throttle body, there are three vacuum hoses, two on the front, one on the back. Follow the one on the back, it's a fairly chunky hose from memory. It goes to a little black box bolted to the firewall...that is your MAP sensor (can also be found by standing in front of the car and looking down the long side of the air intake pipe).
Code 43 is the Detonation sensor circuit (and 4 flashes followed by 3 would be code 43).
To test the sensor:
Using a multimeter, measure the resistance between the centre terminal on the detonation sensor and the engine block, the resistance should be between 3000 and 5000 ohms. If it is NOT then replace the detonation sensor.
Using the same multimeter, measure the voltage at the detonation sensor wiring connector terminal it should be between 4 and 6 VDC. If it is outside that range, then it's time to get really friendly with the wiring loom (and find where it's gone wrong).
I should probably explain where the sensor is huh? :)
Start at the oil filter, sitting at the 'engine' end of the oil filter and sticking straight up into the air is the oil pressure switch, at about the same level that the oil pressure switch screws into the housing, look/feel slightly further to the rear of the oil pressure switch (it may be tucked well behind some wiring), the sensor itself is wired so the 'connector' is pointing at 90 degrees from the oil pressure switch (pointed towards the battery side of the car).
To remove and install:
Squeeze the wide sides of the connector and remove the connector from the sensor.
Unscrew the sensor from the block
When putting either it, or the new one, back in, put a bit of Loctite 242 on the thread, and tighten to 22Nm, and reset the ecu.
Before going through all that though, it might be worth resetting the ecu anyway, just in case it's an old code. Just a thought. If you have reset it recently then ignore that thought. The only reason I said it sounded like code 14 is because you said it flashed once, then flashed 4 times then flashed 3 times. Either I have had too much beer, or not enough :) |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 9:26:30 PM
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che mate nuh we were both right but u know how it is wen a woman is trying 2 xplainsum thing bakwards lol!!hte mapsensor hey well I thought that just b cause code 42 and 44 r map sensor but there was no reference to code 43
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 10:06:24 PM
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Code 42 is Electronic Spark Timing circuit
Code 44 is the Oxygen Sensor Circuit
You're dealing with Code 43 which is the Detonation sensor ;) You should see the full list of codes, it's massive. There's actually some on there that are listed as 'unknown', which is really freaking helpful. LOL |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 10:09:44 PM
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| thanx mate there was a few in my book that didnt even xplain I dont think they were to sure either lol and yeah I'll haf a look at it on the weekend as bak 2 work 2morrow... |
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trizo
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 10:16:18 PM
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| here u go in my manual code 44 islean fuel mix 42 is the same as above but as u said there all over ther the place!det sensor or the map?confused says 34 is the map sensor but this was 43? |
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mouce
National Driver
1525 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 10:57:38 PM
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Dude, before you have a beer on the weekend, re-read my post up above...
Code 34 is the MAP
Code 43 is the Detonation Sensor
Beer goggles got in the way again ;) |
Bite off more than you can chew, and chew like hell - Peter Brock (1945-2006) |
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trizo
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3091 Posts
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Posted - 28 Aug 2006 : 11:00:52 PM
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hehehehehehehe lol worry about it later che mate!det sensor gotcha now!!!heehehee
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trizo
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Posted - 29 Aug 2006 : 7:16:30 PM
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| wat does this det sensor do?it dosent look like other sensors it is the only thing tuked behind the oil fiter but not sure. is it about as round as a 50 cent peice with a nut in front then a neck its only a real small fu@#er, I'm not sure does any 1 have a picture? |
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