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Mechknight73
National Driver
1001 Posts
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 Posted - 28 Dec 2011 : 1:15:22 PM
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If your fuel pump is dead, but there is a quick way to check. Open the door, and turn on the ignition. If your pump works, you will hear a buzzing noise for about 10 seconds, then it will abruptly stop. If you don't hear this, check both the relay and fuse for the pump in the fuse box under the bonnet. If both are fine, then follow the process below.
Firstly, just for the sake of elimination, replace the inline filter as well. WARNING: the inline filter is likely to have some pressure in it. Undo the hose at the front first, and point it away from you. This is a round metal canister, about the same diameter as a Coke can on the fuel line. If there's some kind of garbage clogging the fuel lines, it's best to start again. However, to get to your fuel pump filter, there are a few steps:
1. Drain as much fuel as possible from the tank. The less fuel in it, the easier it will be to remove.
2. Disconnect the filler pipe from the tank. Once you have it as empty as possible, raise the rear axle on axle stands. There will be three "breather" hoses near it. Mark them, take a photo, but record which way they go back in. NOTE: if any of them look perished or damaged in any way, replace all of them while you're working on the tank. When they are leaking, you will notice when you fill up, as they will steadily drip fuel onto the ground when the tank is 100%, robbing you of 5-10 litres of usable fuel, unless you were to immediately drive a long distance.
3. The fuel tank is held up by two retaining straps, a lot like the fuel tanks on any large truck. With a jack underneath it, undo the straps, and lower the tank enough to reach the fuel gauge sender and fuel pump cables Disconnect them, then lower the jack and drag the tank out.
4. Most fuel tanks have a "locking ring" type arrangement. If it does, turn it to the left and the pump and sender will come out as one piece. If I'm wrong, it's usually held in with Phillips head screws. At the end of the fuel pipe into the tank, there will be a mesh filter. Check it for debris and clear as necessary. Also, check the inside of the fuel tank for any more crap that might be in there, and shake it out as needed. You can test the fuel pump while brifely connecting it to a battery.
5. With the tank clean, and the sender/pump assembly back in place, move the tank into position to put it back. The retaining straps have rubber liners around them. Make sure there's rubber between the tank and the strap, as this will prevent future damage to either. Reconnect the fuel tank sender and fuel pump, reattach the straps, and replace the filler. If the fuel you had is clean, put it back in. Turn on the ignition, and wait for the fuel pump to stop. If it turns over more than 10 times, you might need to bleed the fuel system to get it going.
6. Hopefully you'll only need to undo the fuel rail, the main fuel line up to the injectors. Simply undo the line, and when the line is solidly pumping fuel (not spluttering like when you first turn on a garden hose) shut off the ignition and reconnect it. If it still doesn't fire, then we'll have to check the ignition, but try this lot first. You may not even have to go this far in the process. |
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fuel pump replacement step by step help plz?
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