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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 07 May 2010 :  3:45:53 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Hi all. came across this site and it looks pretty damn good so i thought i'd join.

Had a 1988 vn berlina for about 12 years...350k on the clock still goes pretty good, do all my own servicing on the car hoping to learn more.

poor old girl has a few niggles, would like to get another 350k up.Great engines, i'm sure it can be done

cheers all...looking forward to this, sure i will learn alot.
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VNSVLE
Forum Moderator


smiley-blunder

1316 Posts

Male

Posted - 08 May 2010 :  2:25:34 PM  Show Profile Send VNSVLE a Private Message
 
Welcome to the family buddy!! Any questions you have ask away. Just remember the only silly question is the one you dont ask :)

Cheers
Wayne
 

What's the difference between understeer and oversteer?
Understeer is when the driver is scared.
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 10 May 2010 :  10:04:34 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Cheers, already learning...great site. VN Berlina S1 is just a work car, so wont be getting paint/Wheels, or any 'go faster' bits. Just want to keep the ol' girl going.At the moment just got to fix niggles n stuff, so hopefully will learn all i need on here.Things like 'leaking diff, change brakepads and bleeding brake line,Gbox service, power steer probs, dodgy instruments, starter moter stuff, and alignments..hows that for a heads up. Missus got the VT, that goes to the garage, mine has'nt been for about 5 years..hope to do it all meself.

cheers.
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 10 May 2010 :  7:35:03 PM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
For S1s, if you don't want to go to the expense of fitting a Series 2 intake manifold (for the conventional radiator/cap setup) have a surge tank made up in stainless steel. Eventually these tanks will craze, crack, and break up because they're plastic. As I suck at stainless steel welding, I'll be sourcing another surge tank as a reference for a stainless steel fabricator, to use as a model. He can then measure anything he needs to so as to get it right. As the S1's surge tank setup is as popular as a drunk at an AA meeting, you tend to get them cheap. I don't have the money to have this done yet, but this is my plan
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 13 May 2010 :  12:00:12 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
sounds like a plan Mechknight, surge tank is 'cracked' just below cap. Wont be long until that packs up.was just going to get one from the wreckers but now that you mention it i do know someone who's job is 'stainless steel fabrication'.very good too....and he lives in dartmoor, your in portland?? or was that someone else on here.

I have always wondered why my vn had no radiator cap
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 13 May 2010 :  01:42:16 AM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
I am in Portland, and for now, I have a surge tank that's ok, the old one will be used as the model for the fabricator. If they do leak, you have to top them up about once a week.

S1s only had this stupid surge tank arrangment, as it was a hangover from the front wheel drive configuration in America. That large stainless steel pipe that goes from the back of the manifold to the top radiator hose would go straight forward on a front wheel drive. The surge tank was an American idea. Having proved the VN in prototype testing, Holden knew they had to capitalise on the success of the VL, and beat Ford to the punch with the EA Falcon. Ford panicked, rushing a lemon onto the market because it was as big as the VN. Not satisfied with that afterthought, they changed the manifold on the Series 2, moving the thermostat housing to the front like the V8s. Ironically, Ford had exactly the same surge tank setup on the EA Falcon, but they blew head gaskets so often, that Ford dealers had complete 6 cylinder heads on the shelf as a "genuine replacement part." They're slow learners, as they're still doing it today, and the VE has a conventional radiator

Have finally solved all of my car's electrical problems. Turns out it was one specific relay that was causing me trouble with the rear demister, the blower fan and the radiator fan. Among the collection of plastic cased relays under the bonnet, there is one metal cased unit. This one is Holden specific, and if you put it in the wrong socket (they all fit the same) it will give you troubles elsewhere

Edited by - Mechknight73 on 13 May 2010 01:45:31 AM
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 13 May 2010 :  7:38:48 PM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
The irony is that the vast majority of your list above are cheap things to fix. Depending on where it's leaking from on the power steering, even that can be cheap. One of the places they leak often (one I'll have to deal with soon) is the lines going to and from the power steering pump. Where it attaches to the steering rack, there are two o ring seals. There are two types of o ring for this job; standard and high temperature. Always go for the high temperature o rings, as they don't pack it in as early.

Brakes are a fairly simple "meccano set." If you chnage a set of pads, just do one axle at a time, so if you forget how they go in, you have one to reference. If your brake fluid is a very dark shade of green that looks more like sump oil, you can flush it out by opening the bleed valves and getting your missus to pump the brake. When the brake resevoir is almost empty, fill it up, and keep pumping. When only new fluid is coming out of the bleed valves, close them and test the pedal with the engine running. I'm not a mechanic, only a "bush technician" and try to do as much of the work myself as possible. Although if you want to do your own brakes, would be a good idea to get your own "pad pusher;" a metal plate with a clamp style bolt going through the middle of it. As your pads wear, the caliper piston gets closer to the disc, and has to be pushed back so the new pads will fit.

My basic Executive instrument cluster that I bought at a wreckers cost me $40. Not perfect, but does work better than the old one. Do that, and you cant take as long as you like to recondition the one you have, or keep the one with the least miles on the odometer.

I'm happy to have things on my car working that haven't been for about 6 months; heater, air conditioning, radiator fan, and a car stereo that does something other than pick up AM radio. Even went to the trouble of getting a UHF CB. This one is barely bigger than a Walkman, but works just as well as the bigger units. Next is a GPS. As I'm an interstate migrant, country Victoria isn't familiar territory, so I need some help getting around some of the towns.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 03 Jun 2010 :  9:01:07 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Just out of interest, what sort of fuel mileage should i be looking for in my 3.8.

My speed is generally 90-100kph, Depending on how many kanga's are on the road.
80 percent of my driving is open road, not city driving...( in a week i would do 500k's open road and about 40k's city)
have been crunching a few numbers this week, looks like i am using about 9.5 litres per 100k's....give or take
i know this is over, but what does it indicate could be wrong....keep in mind, she's done 350k's.....and would cruise control use more..i think it would use less
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 04 Jun 2010 :  7:08:26 PM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
Actually, for a V6 in good tune, those are excellent numbers. Slightly better than mine at the moment, but then again, it's been a while since I changed the oil or the plugs
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 04 Jun 2010 :  10:26:13 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Well there ya go...i thought i'd be looking at 9 per 100 k.or better on open road, I changed plugs/leads about 12 months ago, oil last weekend.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 03 Aug 2010 :  10:01:54 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
OK...i have just done the 'Reset ECU' thing.....remove fuse, then revs etc etc.
The Plough was playing funny buggers idling, Sometimes ok, sometimes high, sometimes when put into gear revs would drop low enough to stall.
see how i go...seems ok from first startup anyway.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 03 Aug 2010 :  10:06:15 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Also....i have now decided to run Premiem 95 octane BP fuel.I already can feel the difference in they way she runs. and someone mentioned it can also 'clean' the insides.

do we all agree this is a good idea....or another fuel perhaps (brand?)
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 03 Aug 2010 :  2:35:00 PM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
BP might not be the cheapest out there, but they do make good quality fuel. Higher octane fuel will always make an engine run better, because it burns better, thereby giving a bit more power per ignition cycle, and reducing the amount of carbon in the combustion chamber. Over time, it can scrub away some of the carbon already there.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 05 Aug 2010 :  08:43:52 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Righto....Idling seems spot on over the las coupl of days, reseting ecu seems to have done the trick.

On another note....i have a cluster out of a vr/vs.

can i put this in a vn.

I have noticed some sell these cluster to suit vn/p/r/s.
but some have said will not fit, one also said it will damage the cluster, and possibly my wiring.
I will take out my cluster and compare the backs today but wont put the vr/s cluster until i am absolutly sure.

cheers.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 05 Aug 2010 :  12:07:00 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
small note.....the backs of both clusters the same
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 05 Aug 2010 :  1:52:26 PM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
I can't remember the specific differences, but apparently most of those differences are to do with "level 2" instrument clusters; those that have more than just fuel, temp and speedo. I know the guys here will run you through the specifics
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 07 Aug 2010 :  09:19:25 AM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Is it possible that i might do some wiring damege?.
if it does not work, so be it.i just won't use it
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VNSVLE
Forum Moderator


smiley-blunder

1316 Posts

Male

Posted - 07 Aug 2010 :  3:41:57 PM  Show Profile Send VNSVLE a Private Message
 
VR VS will cause smoke to escape from wires Level 1, 2 and 3 vn vp cluster will work no worries (extra wiring for lvl 3 trip comp of course) but yes vr vs a big no no unless you do some rewiring.
Cheers
Wayne
 

What's the difference between understeer and oversteer?
Understeer is when the driver is scared.
Oversteer is when the passenger is scared.
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 07 Aug 2010 :  10:59:53 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
Cheers wayne....a no go for that cluster...no biggie, just wanted a substitute while i fix the one in it now.

a bit bizarre that someone said to me 'yep ..no worries, i've put em in vn's before with no drama's'.

glad i double checked
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 08 Aug 2010 :  09:35:52 AM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
Because of the known problems with VN cluster, you can get them cheap in wrecking yards. The one presently in my VN cost me $40; the only thing I have to tap the dash for, is the r/h side if the speedo lighting. If I don't, it's on the dimmed setting. This one is ok until I can get the original reconditioned.
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SKDWGN
P Plater



80 Posts

Male

Posted - 08 Aug 2010 :  8:28:38 PM  Show Profile Send SKDWGN a Private Message
 
i got 2 level one custers in my shed and 2 lvl 3 clusters one in my skid car and one in my stato
 

wheres theres smoke theres rubber
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P Plater


sports-fishing

67 Posts

Male

Posted - 13 Aug 2010 :  9:13:39 PM  Show Profile Send Tonto a Private Message
 
OK....this may sound bizarre...may not.

after removing cluster to compare almost a week ago. Put it back in and HEY!!!....it seems to work....well the fuel seems ok and the temp is hanging around in between 1st and 2nd mark.

definatly not fluctuating up and down or reading 1/2 full after filling up....any ideas...have i just put it back in a fluked it.

also, the 'plugs' themselves are just a little loose...this is normal. Although i rushed it, it did'nt seem that they were able to be tightened

i hope i have made sense.....i've probably had one to many beers
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Mechknight73
National Driver


robot-robot14

1001 Posts

Male

Posted - 15 Aug 2010 :  09:49:11 AM  Show Profile Send Mechknight73 a Private Message
 
It could be as simple as disturbing something in the connector sockets; some particle of dirt, it may have had some iron in it (run a magnet through the dirt, and you'll see what I mean) The clusters themselves have a tiny amount of "adjustment" where the screws hold the body to the steel of the dash frame; maybe it moved that fraction of a millimetre which made the difference
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