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 Technical Modifications
 coolant circulation faulty

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
andrewpapa Posted - 30 Apr 2010 : 7:28:43 PM
hi i need help . i have a vn v6 5speed with lpg ,problem is the water is not circulating thru the lpg converter and the car will run for 5-10 minutes and stops, the lpg converter freezes up , the car is not getting hot but no hot water is running thru the lpg converter .is my thermostat working and can i run the car with no thermostat in it? thank you
30   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
VNGRPA Posted - 13 Jun 2011 : 12:51:08 AM
quote:
Originally posted by annorbOppogma

Hi everybody! I am from Denmark and would like to say hello!


wrong place mate but welcome
Mechknight73 Posted - 25 May 2010 : 11:27:05 PM
Only charged for an hour's work plus one tail light bulb lol
andrewpapa Posted - 25 May 2010 : 10:53:05 PM
that is good you got it going sorry i forgot about that metal relay but that relay only gos in one plug with the center pin it hase 5 pins,i guess it can fit in the athere plugs but it is a different relay and is metal but yes it will not work like that in the wrong plug. i hope the auto sparky didn't charge you much money for a simple fix
Mechknight73 Posted - 25 May 2010 : 4:15:59 PM
Called in the auto sparky. Turns out the real reason why the blower fan, radiator fan and rear demister didn't work was because of a single relay. The relay box in front of the radiator header tank has about 6 of them. One of those relays is different to the others, in how it's wired inside. Without knowing this, I had swapped relays around, and this relay was on the wrong socket. To identify this little bastard, which apparently is a GM- only part is simple. All the other relays have plastic casings. This one has a metal casing, and if it's the original relay, has a diagonal blue line across it, as if someone used a permanent marker on it. Now that this relay is in the right position, everything works again. Bought a new stereo, GPS navigator and UHF two way, and finally, all of it works!
andrewpapa Posted - 25 May 2010 : 02:32:07 AM
Mechknight73 HAVE YOU FIX YOUR electrical problems YET ?
Mechknight73 Posted - 24 May 2010 : 11:04:18 PM
No problem, we are here to help
andrewpapa Posted - 24 May 2010 : 10:30:31 PM
hi i would like to thank Mechknight73-VNSVLE-bigjohn256 for there opinions and information thanks .my vn is working on lpg now the hoses from the lpg converter i have put them to the inlet-manifold and water pump and fixed up the air-con hoses this has fixed the problem with the lpg converter freezing up and stalling the car .i am so happy that i can drive my car now on lpg!!!!!!!!! thank you to this internet site vncommordore.com.au and Mechknight73-VNSVLE-bigjohn256 thank you for helping me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!my car is working lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!happy
andrewpapa Posted - 22 May 2010 : 11:21:34 PM
i have water in hoses from gravity but no water is pumping thru hoses ,i have flushed all hoses and water runs thru them but when i have the car running there is no water pressure circulating thru air-con hoses ,heater valve is not blocked water runs thru it. need help thanks
Mechknight73 Posted - 22 May 2010 : 11:09:07 PM
There is a quick way to check if your heater is working the way it should; get it to operating temperature, open the fuse box lid under the dash, and with a rag around your fingers, feel the brass pipes you can see immediately behind the panel up the side of the centre dash. This is your heater pipe, and if it doesn't feel as hot as a pot of coffee, then yes, there is no circulation.

Something I did notice, although unsure as to whether this is series 1 only, is a vacuum servo valve that is in the heater circuit; it goes right up to the heater core inside the cab. If your car has one, check to see if there's any damage, and wiggle the mechanism to make sure it moves freely.On my S1, it's a black barrel with a small diameter vacuum lead coming out the back of it. I have no idea exactly what it does on my car, but no harm in checking that on yours
andrewpapa Posted - 22 May 2010 : 9:10:27 PM
ok today i hooked the lpg converter water hoses to the inlet-manifold and the water pump f**ken hard job no room to work but got hoses on and fixed air-con hoses up. lpg converter is working now water is pumping thru now and heating lpg converter up !!!!!!! i am f**king happy lol ps:/ my air-con hoses are not pumping water have flushed hall hoses and water runs thru them but there is no water pressure pumping thru them when car is running how can i fix this ?. at lest i can drive my vn now the lpg is working!!!!!!
Mechknight73 Posted - 13 May 2010 : 01:28:40 AM
That will work, although would make it part of a circuit to the heater core, otherwise you won't be able to run the front windscreen demister. It' won't hurt the engine, as all the engine needs is for constant circulation through the radiator. The two pipes that stick out of the firewall are there to supply heat to the cabin, and specifically not just warm your feet, but your front windscreen as well.

I have a theory. The S1's header tank (in front of the washer bottle) will often crack and craze, and leak coolant over time. I recently changed mine, after finding a series of cracks 12mm below the seam around the middle. It could be that this is creating an air lock, preventing coolant from flowing through the pipes again. Check your cooling system for leaks; just because it's not running hot doesn't necessarily mean it's not leaking. If possible, have a replacement header tank made in stainless steel. I never did trust plastic for a job like this. Holden didn't either, and did away with the header tank in the S2, removing all evidence of its front wheel drive heritage.
VNSVLE Posted - 13 May 2010 : 01:22:16 AM
Just a note with thermostats. A car engine is designed to run efficiently at a certain temperature. Meaning without the thermostat your car will be running to cold and will be using more fuel as a direct result of this. This is because the ecu can see that the engine is below operating temp and increases the fuel as part of it's warmup phase.

Now if you have ever seen a piston(as an example) you may have (but not likely) seen that it is not perfectly round. This is to allow for the difference in heat expansion due to different thicknesses of metal making up the piston. When cold the piston has a clearance between it and the bore. This clearance becomes tighter as the engine reaches operating temperature. Tighter clearances means more efficient running(within spec of course). If your engine runs cold these tolerances will not be met and can cause damage over time by way of piston slap. Piston slap is caused by to much clearance between piston and bore and as the piston moves up and down it tends to scrap the sides of the bore making those clearances even bigger and reducing engine efficiency. On the other end of the scale an engine running to hot will cause the pistons to expand to much and "sieze' the engine. If anyone has experienced a siezed engine they may have noticed(if it was not to severe as in melt pistons) you can go to the car when it has cooled down sufficiently that you can turn it over and even start it. This is because the piston has shrunk back down.

Now dont get me wrong removing the thermostat as a very temporary measure to get you home is ok as long as it is only temporary and replaced as soon as possible.
andrewpapa Posted - 13 May 2010 : 12:00:29 AM
drove car today and it is playing up again. i am going to put hoses on to inlet-manifold and water pump and flush engine agen + flush radiator. bigjohn256 are you running vn with no thermostat in vn and it is running ok now ? my air-con hoses are not pumping water to the lpg converter so it freezes up and car stalls . if i hook it up to inlet-manifold and water pump and air con is still blocked will the car be ok?
bigjohn256 Posted - 12 May 2010 : 09:10:43 AM
also if you get stuck take the t'stat out i had the same issue with mine
VNSVLE Posted - 08 May 2010 : 10:18:38 PM
Excellent good to hear buddy :)
andrewpapa Posted - 08 May 2010 : 6:46:34 PM
hi to everyone i think the lpg is working now. i have coolant circulation now .i would like to thank everyone who helped me
andrewpapa Posted - 04 May 2010 : 6:50:21 PM
hi Mechknight73 i had the same problem with the radiator fan i Took it to auto sparky and it was the the wires to the engine fan relay in engine bay .check your wires have good connections and clean ,you can even swop relays there a 4 there and all the same ,if the relay is stuffed just buy a knew-one or go to the wreckers, ok your rear demister have you got tinted glass if you do some window tint-er installer can cut the demister if he is not careful , when thy are cutting the tint to fit glass thy can cute rear demister on glass .i know it happened to me in my old car.check all your fuses are good and then check wires are good.
Mechknight73 Posted - 04 May 2010 : 4:06:55 PM
Be thankful it's not an electrical problem lol. I have three of those gremlins in my car; the radiator fan, the blower fan and the rear demister. After replacing all of the suspect parts, it has done nothing to fix the problems they set out to fix. I've booked in the auto sparky now, as even with a manual, I haven't been able to find the offending components
andrewpapa Posted - 04 May 2010 : 12:23:41 AM
hi thank you Mechknight73 i have taken car for drive and i think it is working for know but if it starts playing up again then i will hook it up the other why i am getting sick off lifting the bonnet every day to working on car. lol i have a bad back and hands from work and i still have to finish the paint job on my car i still have to rub back car and buff it glossy.its a lot off work !!! thank you i have vn v6 lpg photos on my facebook http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000514457334&v=photos&ref=profile#!/album.php?aid=17852&id=100000514457334
Mechknight73 Posted - 03 May 2010 : 11:17:14 PM
The hoses going to your airbox are actually for your interior heater. Without flow to them, things like the demister don't work properly. All you have to do, is study where the heater hoses come from and go to on the engine.

If you can run it from the water pump and the inlet manifold independent of the heater hoses i.e. both will work if you turn on the heat, you will have the ideal system. Will go have a look at my own (a Series 1 without LPG) and give you a better idea in the morning
andrewpapa Posted - 03 May 2010 : 9:28:21 PM
hi i have taken car for a drive and i think the car is working on lpg but to test it good i have to go for along drive, if the car is still freezing the lpg converter and not pumping water thu lpg converter i am going to put converter hoses directly to the inlet-manifold water and water pump hose and just fix the air-con hoses up ,there is no water pressure in air-con hoses , i have water pressure coming out off the inlet-manifold under the alternator so i will hock one on to the inlet manifold and the athere to the water pump. i think this will fix it ,i think the air-con water is bocked so if it is, then i will just go directly off the inlet-manifold water and water pump to fix it. if i do it this why i know it will work but i will have to fix air-con hoses up . do you think this is a good idear to hook it up like that ? i do not care if air-con is blocked i do not use it anyway .the air-con works but it takes 10 - 15 minutes to start working and i loses engine power when its on is this the problem why my lpg is freezing and how do i fix it so the air-con hoes pump water to lpg converter? thank you
andrewpapa Posted - 02 May 2010 : 5:50:15 PM
hi i think i have fixed it ,i have to take the car for a long drive drive tomorrow to test it. i do not have an air bled on the lpg converter so i loosened on hose on the lpg converter and let the car run till water had pressure and to let the air out of lpg converter then i tightened the hose clamp on and i think that the water is pumping now i just have to take it for a drive to test it ,i think that the was air in lpg converter and that was the problem. i will let you now if the lpg is working tomorrow. thank you
andrewpapa Posted - 02 May 2010 : 3:55:25 PM
hi ok i have loaded photos to my facebook photos http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000514457334&v=photos&ref=profile#!/album.php?aid=17852&id=100000514457334
andrewpapa Posted - 01 May 2010 : 5:19:51 PM
hi my vn when dead cold i have to start on unleaded petrol and then i can start on lpg, just in the morning if car is dead cold i have to start on unleaded petrol then i can start on lpg all day just on lpg gas
andrewpapa Posted - 01 May 2010 : 5:11:34 PM
hi how do i post photos here? i have taken photos today but i do not now how to post photos here thank you and sorry my spelling,my camera is a cheapo with no flash on it so sorry for the quality off the photos
Mechknight73 Posted - 01 May 2010 : 12:48:40 PM
Also, just curious, is the LPG a recent addition? VLSLE is on to something about the air bleed. A bleed valve could be as simple as a bolt in a fitting. Just look closely around your lpg regualtor, and see if you can find something like it that doesn't appear to do anything. If you're lucky, it might even be marked "bleed"
VNSVLE Posted - 01 May 2010 : 04:11:34 AM
Some pics would help to see exactly how it is all hooked up and we may be able to narrow down possibilities and also may beable to help pipe it up a little better. Honestly though if the car is running fine heat wise you would be wasting your time replacing thermostat and back flushing.

Is it an LPG only conversion or car you run it on petrol?? If you can run it on petrol take it for a run come back pop the bonnet and carefully check if the radiator is heating up and the top hose. If these are heating up and your car does not get hot(as in overheat) while you are taking it for a run the problem will not be in the cooling system, thermostat or otherwise.

Another possibility is an air lock. To elaborarate, when the convertor sits at the highest point in the cooling system, steam rises and settles in the convertor at low revs/low flow rates (ie idle). Get enough air trapped and you have an air lock (no flow).

Where is the converter mounted?? Has it got some sort of bleeder on it??
The converter may also be in need of a good clean out.
Also once your convertor has frozen over, the water has expanded and stressed the gasket between the water chamber and the gas chamber, ergo it should be replaced or at least checked.

See how you go with that and let us know if you need anything else
Cheers
andrewpapa Posted - 01 May 2010 : 02:27:26 AM
hi VNSVLE i have taken the hose off but one at a time so i did not get them mixed up thy are where thy where hoked up by lpg installer, i will try the heat on tomorrow before i pull the thermostat out and revers lush the block ps: i have tried the heater valve opened with my hand holding it open when car is running but no water is pumping out,dos water from water pump get pumped thru inlet manifold to heat fuel up it may be blocked there or in the engine block?thank you
VNSVLE Posted - 01 May 2010 : 01:53:09 AM
Again if your car is not overheating your thermostat and engine cooling system is fine. Have you had the hoses off the heater valve sometime recently?? If so are they all in the correct position?? You say the heater hoses are getting hot?? Also just a little test turn your heater on and see if the water starts to run through??
Cheers
andrewpapa Posted - 01 May 2010 : 01:11:09 AM
hi the hoses run to the air conditioning hoses above the heater valve ,the hoses get hot but they don't pump the hot water to the lpg converter ,i have flushed the lpg converter with hose and water runs thru it but the water from the air conditioner hoses are not pumping water thru lpg converter so it frezzes up and stalls on lpg.i have flushed all hoses but need to get thurmostat out so i can revers flush the block .thanks for the help

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