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 Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 12:11:47 AM
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When cornering sometimes theres a thud as if I ran over something behind the accelerator.
My ex heard it and suggested calling the suspension place.
They looked under it (in the car park ) and said he saw something wrong with the rubbers or something like that.
Does anyone know what he was talking about and if so a rough guess how much it will cost?
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 12:40:55 PM
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Which comes to a total of $700.70
I only paid $1200 for the ENTIRE car!!
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 2:23:59 PM
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tell them to put it on a hoist to inspect it properly, also to write in englush.....
dont go to midas, autoleaders, abs, etc... and especially holden.
chances are the clunk is only a lower ball joint, etc.. but you may need other work done that you dont notice whilst driving. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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V8VNCalais
Fully Licenced
238 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 5:29:19 PM
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There methods dont make sense. It does need to be in english for one thing. as Nodg said lower ball joint. as for the rest
1* Z to chassis = caster rod. Why are they changing one of these? and the price for a high quality one I paid $63 each for mine and I have a 2 year garentee that they wont straighten outas the original GMH ones do
1* R/ Boot = rack boot
1* b/ Plate= bearing plate again why change one of them. when I replaced mine Pedders charged $77 each for them and they are there top of the line bearing plate
1* s/ mates = not really a term i could associate with a car or recognise
1*L/T/A bush= WTF
1 * Z/ C arm= Im of the suspission that this is also a caster rod
and there basically telling you that its taking/taken 2 hours.
Who did you go to?
with out being biased I would have to say that Pedders $14 28 point suspension safty check was the best money I ever spent.
they refuse to do my wheel alighnment untill I got the necessary repairs fixed. If they did the wheel alignment then it would have no effect on my steering. and I would have wasted my money. Thats customer service right there keeping the customers wallet in mind. Im sure thats what this place hd in mind too but for a different reason.
for one thing your asking to find out about a clunk. a steering boot sure it needs replacing the only case it would case a clunk but I wont go in to that.
Im hopping this is only a quote for the work that needs to be done not a tax invoice. I feel that there taking you for a ride. |
Edited by - V8VNCalais on 08 Jul 2008 5:34:35 PM |
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nodg
National Driver
1667 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 5:53:17 PM
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1* Z to chassis = caster bars, either the bush's or the rods themsoelfs could be stuffed/snapped
1* R/ Boot = rack boot, possible, but not causing any clunks or rattles
1* b/ Plate= strut bearing plate, possibly stuffed but how would you know without pulling it apart?
* s/ mates = ???
*L/T/A bush= lower trailing arm bush, correct item is lower ball joint unless he means the back bush's
*W/A= ??????
*ZC Arm=??????
chances are its the lower ball joint or caster bars/bush's, make sure its checked out properly before you splash cash. |
Cheers,
Nodg. |
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V8VNCalais
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238 Posts
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 6:17:44 PM
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| I got it S/mates = Sloshed mates. they gone down the pub for the counter meal and come back a little preoccupied |
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Posted - 08 Jul 2008 : 10:26:26 PM
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W/A = Wheel Alignment
It is the Quote!
I nearly died when I heard it. It was from J&J Exhaust (just a local place)
The only one that needs to be done soon is the $15 'R/Boot'
Which with labour and stuff will be about $100.
I don't have much options on where to take it. Theres only 2 places in town. I will be getting a quote for the other though!
Don't worry about me 'splashing Cash' as I don't have any!!
I jinxed myself last night about the chain reaction of problems!!!
Its so hard to trust mechanics! You just have to take their word and they could be ripping you off so bad.
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V8VNCalais
Fully Licenced
238 Posts
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Posted - 09 Jul 2008 : 12:19:31 AM
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| let us know the results. Im hopping that these guys do a better quote for you. it might even be worth a day trip to a neighboring town. off the topic I live in bendigo and Im tempted to get my exhaust done in Cobram my home town 2 hours away |
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Posted - 13 Jul 2008 : 4:47:11 PM
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I am going to get a few quotes this week.
My ex boyfriend won $1000 on the pokies and said he'd help me out with it! yay! now I just have to get a good quote! |
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DieselBob
P Plater
12 Posts
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Posted - 23 Jul 2008 : 09:32:03 AM
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s-mate is a strut mate.. originally macpherson strut front suspension came with hardened rubber bumpers on the shock rod to stop the shock absorber bottoming (commonly called bump stops :P)... these disintegrate over time with use and age... Most aftermarket replacements are nolethane nylon.... The kit usually comes with a bellows type boot to cover the shocker rod and bump stop, the bump stop itself and 2 cable ties - haven't brought one in years but $100 retail (trade discounts are gold) sounds ballpark ring repco or coventry's and ask for a quote :)
LTA = maybe Lower Trailing Arm - bottom ball joint to subframe. |
DieselBob
797B Cat Dumpy
2513kW
24 Cyl V
Weapon of Choice :) |
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V8VNCalais
Fully Licenced
238 Posts
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Posted - 23 Jul 2008 : 7:23:52 PM
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LTA = maybe Lower Trailing Arm - bottom ball joint to subframe.
This would cause your clunk.......I paid $89 for apair of these they were monro and got them from bursons good investment if you have just spent $700 on shock absorbrs |
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